Hi everyone, John here! Welcome back to the blog. Today, we’re diving into a topic that many people find a bit mysterious: how to best care for coily hair. If you have tight curls or coils, you know they can be absolutely stunning, but they also come with their own unique set of needs.
It can feel overwhelming with all the advice out there, but don’t you worry. We’re going to break it all down, step-by-step, into a simple and easy-to-follow guide. My wonderful assistant, Lila, is here with me to ask the questions you might be thinking of. Ready, Lila?
“Ready as I’ll ever be, John! I’ve always been curious about different hair types, so I’m excited to learn.”
First Things First: What Exactly Is Coily Hair?
Great question to start with! When we talk about hair types, many people refer to a system called the Andre Walker Hair Typing System. It’s basically a way to categorize hair based on its curl pattern, ranging from Type 1 (straight) to Type 4 (coily).
Lila: “Hold on, John. The ‘Andre Walker Hair Typing System’? That sounds super technical.”
It does, but the idea is simple! Think of it like a chart that helps you identify your hair’s general shape. For coily hair, we’re looking at Type 4, which is the tightest curl pattern of all. Even within Type 4, there are sub-categories:
- Type 4A: These are tight, well-defined coils that, if you stretched one out, would form an “S” shape. Think of a tiny, springy Slinky. They have a visible curl pattern and are about the circumference of a crochet needle.
- Type 4B: Instead of an “S” shape, these strands have a “Z” shape with sharp angles. The curls are less defined and more crimpy. Imagine a wire that’s been bent back and forth into tight zig-zags.
- Type 4C: This is the most tightly coiled hair. The strands are very densely packed together and can have a Z-pattern or no discernible pattern at all. Type 4C hair experiences the most shrinkage—sometimes up to 75% of its actual length!
It’s also super common to have a mix of these patterns on your head. The key takeaway is that Type 4 hair is beautifully complex and has a very tight curl structure.
The Biggest Challenge: Why Coily Hair Gets So Thirsty
The number one thing to understand about coily hair is that it’s naturally prone to dryness. This isn’t because something is “wrong” with it; it’s just the nature of its beautiful shape.
Your scalp produces a natural oil called sebum, which is meant to travel down your hair strands to keep them moisturized and protected.
Lila: “Sebum… is that the stuff that can make straight hair look greasy sometimes?”
Exactly, Lila! With straight hair (Type 1), the sebum has a direct, easy path from the scalp to the ends. It’s like a straight, freshly paved highway. But for coily hair, that journey is much more complicated. The oil has to navigate countless twists, turns, and coils. Think of it as a winding, bumpy mountain road. By the time the sebum gets part of the way down, there isn’t much left for the ends, leaving them dry and vulnerable.
This is why moisture is the name of the game for Type 4 hair care!
Your Ultimate Coily Hair Care Routine
Okay, now that we understand the ‘why,’ let’s get into the ‘how.’ Building a consistent routine is the best way to keep your coils happy, hydrated, and healthy. We can break it down into a few key steps.
Step 1: The “Pre-Poo”
Before you even think about shampoo, consider a pre-poo treatment. This is a simple but game-changing step.
Lila: “Wait, a ‘pre-poo’? That sounds a little funny. Is that short for pre-shampoo?”
You got it! A pre-poo is an oil or conditioner treatment you apply to your dry hair before washing it. You let it sit for about 20-30 minutes. This creates a protective barrier around your hair strands. Why? Because some shampoos, especially those with harsh detergents, can strip away all the oils from your hair—both the good natural ones and any buildup. The pre-poo ensures your hair stays soft and moisturized through the cleansing process and helps make detangling a whole lot easier.
Step 2: Gentle Cleansing
When it’s time to wash, you want to be gentle. Many people with coily hair avoid shampoos with sulfates. Instead, they opt for sulfate-free shampoos or something called “co-washing.”
Lila: “Okay, two new terms there, John. What are sulfates, and what in the world is co-washing?”
Great questions!
- Sulfates are strong cleaning agents that create that rich, bubbly lather we often associate with being “clean.” But for dry hair types, they can be too harsh and stripping. Think of them like a heavy-duty dish soap—great for greasy pans, but too much for delicate skin or hair.
- Co-washing is short for “conditioner washing.” It means you skip the shampoo entirely and wash your hair only with a cleansing conditioner. These conditioners have very mild cleansing ingredients that gently remove grime without stripping natural oils. Many people alternate between a co-wash and a gentle sulfate-free shampoo.
When you wash, focus the product on your scalp where most of the buildup is. Let the suds run down the length of your hair as you rinse.
Step 3: Deep Condition Like You Mean It
If there’s one step you should never, ever skip, it’s this one. After cleansing, you need to put all that moisture back in. This is where a thick, nourishing deep conditioner or hair mask comes in. Slather it on, making sure every strand is coated. For an extra boost, use a little heat! You can pop on a plastic cap and sit under a hooded dryer or use a special heated deep conditioning cap. The heat helps the hair’s cuticle open up, allowing all that goodness to penetrate deeper.
Lila: “What’s a ‘cuticle,’ John?”
Think of your hair strand as being covered in tiny, overlapping scales, like the tiles on a roof. That’s the cuticle! When the scales are lying flat, your hair is smooth and shiny. When they’re raised, your hair can feel rough and lose moisture easily. Heat helps lift them just enough for the conditioner to get inside.
Step 4: The Art of Moisturizing (The LOC/LCO Method)
Okay, your hair is clean and conditioned. Now it’s time to lock in all that hydration. This is where you’ll often hear about the LOC or LCO method.
Lila: “LOC… LCO… it sounds like a secret code for a spy movie!”
Haha, it does! But it’s actually a super simple and effective layering technique. The letters stand for the order in which you apply products:
- L = Liquid: This is your water-based product. You can use plain water in a spray bottle or a liquid leave-in conditioner. This step provides the actual hydration.
- O = Oil: After the liquid, you apply an oil (like jojoba, coconut, or olive oil) to help seal in the water you just added.
- C = Cream: The final step is a cream-based moisturizer or styling cream. This provides more moisture and helps define your coils.
Some people prefer the LCO method (Liquid, Cream, then Oil), where the oil is the final sealing step. Try both and see which one your hair likes more! This layering technique is crucial for keeping your thirsty coils quenched for days.
A Few More Pro Tips
Beyond the wash day routine, a few daily habits can make a world of difference.
- Detangle Gently: Never, ever try to detangle coily hair when it’s dry. Do it when it’s wet and slippery with conditioner. Use your fingers first to gently separate large tangles, then follow up with a wide-tooth comb. Always start from the ends and work your way up to the roots to minimize breakage.
- Embrace Protective Styles: These are styles that keep the fragile ends of your hair tucked away and protected from damage. Think braids, twists, buns, and updos. They give your hair a break from daily manipulation and help retain length.
- Nighttime Protection: Cotton pillowcases can suck the moisture right out of your hair and cause friction that leads to breakage. Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase, or protect your hair with a satin bonnet or scarf. It makes a HUGE difference in moisture retention and preventing tangles.
John’s Final Thoughts
For me, learning about coily hair care is a beautiful reminder that we should work with our natural features, not against them. It’s not about “taming” or “controlling” hair, but about understanding what it needs to thrive and giving it that loving care.
Lila’s Take: “I have to say, this was eye-opening! I never realized how much science was involved. The analogy of the straight road versus the winding mountain path for the hair’s natural oils really clicked for me. It makes so much sense why coily hair needs extra moisture!”
Exactly! It’s all about understanding the ‘why.’ Once you do, the ‘how’ becomes so much more intuitive. We hope this guide helps you on your healthy hair journey!
This article is based on the following original source, summarized from the author’s perspective:
The Pros’ All-Time Best Tips For Taking Care Of Your Coily
Hair